Anyone knows what the major difference between the raw and boiled linseed oil? And what's the difference if I purchase these from non-snooker-accessories shop?
I read in a woodworking book that boiled linseed oil dries faster than raw. I don't think there are any difference where you buy it, snooker store or woodworking store. I bought mine in a home hardware store in Canada. Cost me $30 HKD for 2 L (which can last all my life!!)
I just purchased 1L online at $120 (including delivery price) as it's difficult for me to find where it's available.
Btw, John Parris said we have to let the cue absorb the oil over nights. If it dries so quick, will the wood couldn't absorb well? Anyway, I am trying mineral oil on my Riley cue two times already (1 time a week) and the feeling just give me it's a little harder and heavier. That could be mind effect.
Don't worry about it drying too quickly. I had the same thoughts the first time I put on the linseed oil (applied a heavy coat) and the next day, the cue is still undry and so "lup" that I have to wipe with wet towel and put on baby oil to make it smooth enough to play. Just put on a thin coat and leave overnight and the next morning use a dry cloth to buff a little. The cue shaft should turn a little browner each time you use the linseed oil which gives it a vintage look.
Raw or boiled linseed oil?
Posted - 14.08.2002 : 23:09:48
